CB650SC/New Owner Suggestions: Difference between revisions

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==Should replace==
==Engine==
===O-rings===
===Should replace===
====O-rings====
Avoid fuel leakage:
Avoid fuel leakage:
* Carb "Tee" x2
* Carb "Fuel-Tee" x2
* Carb bowl x4
* Carb bowl seal x4
* Carb flow tubes & vent "Tees" x8(x4+x4)
* Carb fuel tubes & "Vent-Tees" x8(x2+x2+x2+2)


Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean):
Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean):
* Carb-head x8
* Carb-to-insulator-to-head x8(x2+x2+x2+2)


Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication:
Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication/<b>valve tick</b>:
* Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8)
* Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8)


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* Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully)
* Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully)


==Must clean/rebuild==
===Must clean/rebuild===
===Carburetors===
====Carburetors====
* Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or clean, check, and reuse (order individually by size, no kits)
* Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or clean, check, and reuse (order individually by size, no kits)
* Reuse main-jet needle (do not trust "kits")
* Reuse main-jet needle (do not trust "kits")
* If a po crushed the mixture screw seats, tuning will go from 2-3 turns out to something like 1/4-3/4 of a turn out
* If a po crushed the mixture screw seats, tuning will go from 2-3 turns out to something like 1/4-3/4 of a turn out
** The hole that the very tip of the mixture screw "needle" goes into should have a narrow, raised "lip" surrounding it. If you look down the mixture screw hole, and see a  "pin-hole" that is flush to the base or has "started" out metal around it that looks like a pressed rivet, the screw seat is crushed and destroyed.
** The hole that the very tip of the mixture screw "needle" goes into should have a narrow, raised "lip" surrounding it. If you look down the mixture screw hole, and see a  "pin-hole" that is flush to the base or has "starred" out metal around it that looks like a pressed rivet, the mixture seat is crushed and destroyed.
* It goes without saying, vacuum-balance the carbs
* It goes without saying, vacuum-balance the carbs
** Nothing beats digital gauges for speed, ease of use, or accuracy.
** Nothing beats digital gauges for speed, ease of use, or accuracy.
* If you don't have and can't get "EPA"/back-out lock caps for the mixture screws, they -will- back out and lead to fouled plugs
** 3D printed replacements do exist and can be thread locked on just like the originals
** In desperate situations a spot of white, high-temperature, fuel-safe <b>thread sealer</b> can be used to secure the screw <b>AFTER</b> reading the spark plugs to confirm the tune
*** Blue thread locker will loosen from engine heat even if the carbs are cold
*** Red thread locker will be a huge mistake


===Hydraulic Tappets===
====Hydraulic Tappets====
* Follow manual for removal
* Follow manual for removal
* Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil
* Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil
* again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean
* again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean
* bleed out the solvent from the last step
* bleed out the solvent from the last step
* bleed under engine oil until primed (pushing on the taper without the "bleeder pin" should feel like it is basically completely solid
* bleed under engine oil until primed (pressing on the tappet without the "bleeder pin" inserted should feel like it is basically completely solid
* keep upright and install with the tappet lower hole toward the (toward spark-plugs) squirter?
* Keep upright and install with the tappet lower hole toward the centre (toward spark-plugs) squirter hole


==Hydraulic control systems==
==Hydraulic control systems==
===Brakes===
===Brakes===
* Brake callipers will corrode and seize in place, essentially locking the wheel if left unmaintained
** soaking in PB Blaster for days and 100psi from the air compressor may be necessary to dislodge the pistons
** soaking in PB Blaster and wailing upon with a punch and 1/2lb hammer may be necessary to remove the retaining pins
===Clutch===
===Clutch===

Latest revision as of 20:17, 30 June 2026

Engine

Should replace

O-rings

Avoid fuel leakage:

  • Carb "Fuel-Tee" x2
  • Carb bowl seal x4
  • Carb fuel tubes & "Vent-Tees" x8(x2+x2+x2+2)

Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean):

  • Carb-to-insulator-to-head x8(x2+x2+x2+2)

Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication/valve tick:

  • Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8)

Avoid low oil pressure/dirty oil contamination?:

  • Oil filter tube x3?
  • Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully)

Must clean/rebuild

Carburetors

  • Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or clean, check, and reuse (order individually by size, no kits)
  • Reuse main-jet needle (do not trust "kits")
  • If a po crushed the mixture screw seats, tuning will go from 2-3 turns out to something like 1/4-3/4 of a turn out
    • The hole that the very tip of the mixture screw "needle" goes into should have a narrow, raised "lip" surrounding it. If you look down the mixture screw hole, and see a "pin-hole" that is flush to the base or has "starred" out metal around it that looks like a pressed rivet, the mixture seat is crushed and destroyed.
  • It goes without saying, vacuum-balance the carbs
    • Nothing beats digital gauges for speed, ease of use, or accuracy.
  • If you don't have and can't get "EPA"/back-out lock caps for the mixture screws, they -will- back out and lead to fouled plugs
    • 3D printed replacements do exist and can be thread locked on just like the originals
    • In desperate situations a spot of white, high-temperature, fuel-safe thread sealer can be used to secure the screw AFTER reading the spark plugs to confirm the tune
      • Blue thread locker will loosen from engine heat even if the carbs are cold
      • Red thread locker will be a huge mistake

Hydraulic Tappets

  • Follow manual for removal
  • Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil
  • again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean
  • bleed out the solvent from the last step
  • bleed under engine oil until primed (pressing on the tappet without the "bleeder pin" inserted should feel like it is basically completely solid
  • Keep upright and install with the tappet lower hole toward the centre (toward spark-plugs) squirter hole

Hydraulic control systems

Brakes

  • Brake callipers will corrode and seize in place, essentially locking the wheel if left unmaintained
    • soaking in PB Blaster for days and 100psi from the air compressor may be necessary to dislodge the pistons
    • soaking in PB Blaster and wailing upon with a punch and 1/2lb hammer may be necessary to remove the retaining pins

Clutch