CB650SC/New Owner Suggestions: Difference between revisions
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==Should replace== | ==Engine== | ||
===O-rings=== | ===Should replace=== | ||
====O-rings==== | |||
Avoid fuel leakage: | Avoid fuel leakage: | ||
* Carb "Tee" x2 | * Carb "Fuel-Tee" x2 | ||
* Carb bowl x4 | * Carb bowl seal x4 | ||
* Carb | * Carb fuel tubes & "Vent-Tees" x8(x2+x2+x2+2) | ||
Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean): | Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean): | ||
* Carb-head x8 | * Carb-to-insulator-to-head x8(x2+x2+x2+2) | ||
Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication: | Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication/<b>valve tick</b>: | ||
* Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8) | * Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8) | ||
| Line 16: | Line 17: | ||
* Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully) | * Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully) | ||
==Must clean/rebuild== | ===Must clean/rebuild=== | ||
===Carburetors=== | ====Carburetors==== | ||
* Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or reuse (order individually by size, no kits) | * Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or clean, check, and reuse (order individually by size, no kits) | ||
* Reuse needle (do not trust "kits") | * Reuse main-jet needle (do not trust "kits") | ||
* If a po crushed the mixture screw seats, tuning will go from 2-3 turns out to something like 1/4-3/4 of a turn out | |||
** The hole that the very tip of the mixture screw "needle" goes into should have a narrow, raised "lip" surrounding it. If you look down the mixture screw hole, and see a "pin-hole" that is flush to the base or has "starred" out metal around it that looks like a pressed rivet, the mixture seat is crushed and destroyed. | |||
* It goes without saying, vacuum-balance the carbs | |||
** Nothing beats digital gauges for speed, ease of use, or accuracy. | |||
* If you don't have and can't get "EPA"/back-out lock caps for the mixture screws, they -will- back out and lead to fouled plugs | |||
** 3D printed replacements do exist and can be thread locked on just like the originals | |||
** In desperate situations a spot of white, high-temperature, fuel-safe <b>thread sealer</b> can be used to secure the screw <b>AFTER</b> reading the spark plugs to confirm the tune | |||
*** Blue thread locker will loosen from engine heat even if the carbs are cold | |||
*** Red thread locker will be a huge mistake | |||
===Hydraulic Tappets=== | ====Hydraulic Tappets==== | ||
* Follow manual for removal | * Follow manual for removal | ||
* Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil | * Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil | ||
* again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean | * again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean | ||
* bleed out the solvent from the last step | * bleed out the solvent from the last step | ||
* bleed under engine oil until primed ( | * bleed under engine oil until primed (pressing on the tappet without the "bleeder pin" inserted should feel like it is basically completely solid | ||
* | * Keep upright and install with the tappet lower hole toward the centre (toward spark-plugs) squirter hole | ||
==Hydraulic control systems== | ==Hydraulic control systems== | ||
===Brakes=== | ===Brakes=== | ||
* Brake callipers will corrode and seize in place, essentially locking the wheel if left unmaintained | |||
** soaking in PB Blaster for days and 100psi from the air compressor may be necessary to dislodge the pistons | |||
** soaking in PB Blaster and wailing upon with a punch and 1/2lb hammer may be necessary to remove the retaining pins | |||
===Clutch=== | ===Clutch=== | ||
Latest revision as of 20:17, 30 June 2026
Engine
Should replace
O-rings
Avoid fuel leakage:
- Carb "Fuel-Tee" x2
- Carb bowl seal x4
- Carb fuel tubes & "Vent-Tees" x8(x2+x2+x2+2)
Avoid Air leakage(leads to lean):
- Carb-to-insulator-to-head x8(x2+x2+x2+2)
Avoid low head/cam/tappet lubrication/valve tick:
- Valve-train oil pipe x10(x2+x8)
Avoid low oil pressure/dirty oil contamination?:
- Oil filter tube x3?
- Oil filter cover x1 (sometimes comes with new filter, can be reused carefully)
Must clean/rebuild
Carburetors
- Check and replace with same jets & emulsion tube or clean, check, and reuse (order individually by size, no kits)
- Reuse main-jet needle (do not trust "kits")
- If a po crushed the mixture screw seats, tuning will go from 2-3 turns out to something like 1/4-3/4 of a turn out
- The hole that the very tip of the mixture screw "needle" goes into should have a narrow, raised "lip" surrounding it. If you look down the mixture screw hole, and see a "pin-hole" that is flush to the base or has "starred" out metal around it that looks like a pressed rivet, the mixture seat is crushed and destroyed.
- It goes without saying, vacuum-balance the carbs
- Nothing beats digital gauges for speed, ease of use, or accuracy.
- If you don't have and can't get "EPA"/back-out lock caps for the mixture screws, they -will- back out and lead to fouled plugs
- 3D printed replacements do exist and can be thread locked on just like the originals
- In desperate situations a spot of white, high-temperature, fuel-safe thread sealer can be used to secure the screw AFTER reading the spark plugs to confirm the tune
- Blue thread locker will loosen from engine heat even if the carbs are cold
- Red thread locker will be a huge mistake
Hydraulic Tappets
- Follow manual for removal
- Use allen key (my recommendation), smooth bore side of 1/16 drill bit (Clymer manual), or special tool Honda 07973-ME9-0000 to bleed out oil
- again bleed upright under kerosene (mineral spirits or maybe even diesel fuel in a pinch?) to clean
- bleed out the solvent from the last step
- bleed under engine oil until primed (pressing on the tappet without the "bleeder pin" inserted should feel like it is basically completely solid
- Keep upright and install with the tappet lower hole toward the centre (toward spark-plugs) squirter hole
Hydraulic control systems
Brakes
- Brake callipers will corrode and seize in place, essentially locking the wheel if left unmaintained
- soaking in PB Blaster for days and 100psi from the air compressor may be necessary to dislodge the pistons
- soaking in PB Blaster and wailing upon with a punch and 1/2lb hammer may be necessary to remove the retaining pins