DSM/ECU/Reverse Engineering: Difference between revisions
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Created page with "==Toolbox== * DSLR * Screwdrivers * Tweezers * Solder * Solder Sucker * Solder Wick * Soldering Iron * SMD/Reflow Air Tool * Chamois cloth ===Solvents=== * Acetone * WD-40 *..." |
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==How-To== | ==How-To== | ||
===Hardware=== | |||
# Obtain ECU | # Obtain ECU | ||
# Take external | # Take external photographs | ||
#* Mostly for all the numbers and letters/the stickers | #* Mostly for all the numbers and letters/the stickers | ||
# Open ECU | # Open ECU | ||
| Line 28: | Line 30: | ||
#* The EPROM (if there is one) | #* The EPROM (if there is one) | ||
#* Any and all visible marking on components | #* Any and all visible marking on components | ||
#* The | #* The ENTIRE board on BOTH sides | ||
# RECORD all components with visible markings, decode resistor values | # RECORD all components with visible markings, decode resistor values | ||
#* This means a table with the PCB Silkscreen references and the components values | #* This means a table with the PCB Silkscreen references and the components values | ||
# ACETONE bath | |||
#* This is to remove all the conformal coating junk that interferes with reading markings AND the ability to probe, test, and desolder | |||
# SCRUB with Toothbrush, Q-Tips | |||
# PHOTOGRAPH and RECORD any newly visible information | |||
# REMOVE any components with known values: | |||
## Electrolytic capacitors can go first | |||
## Then any ICs | |||
## Resistors with the bands already decoded | |||
## Connectors | |||
# REMOVE components with unknown values ONE AT A TIME | |||
## SMD Capacitors and Transistors are good examples | |||
## Remove one, use the Multimeter and/or LCR meter to get values and RECORD them in the table | |||
# Eventually you will be left with a BARE BOARD | |||
# SPRAY and WIPE DOWN the bare PCB with WD-40 to clean up any remaining conformal coating and junk | |||
#* This preps the board for nice clear photographs | |||
# PHOTOGRAPH both sides of the PCB | |||
#* Get ONE photo of EACH side of the PCB | |||
#* Flat | |||
#* In focus | |||
#* Dead-on photos with no perspective error | |||
#* Use a tripod | |||
#* Use lighting | |||
#* Use a remote shutter-release to eliminate shake from the image | |||
===Digitization=== | |||
Revision as of 13:43, 4 March 2022
Toolbox
- DSLR
- Screwdrivers
- Tweezers
- Solder
- Solder Sucker
- Solder Wick
- Soldering Iron
- SMD/Reflow Air Tool
- Chamois cloth
Solvents
- Acetone
- WD-40
- Flux
- Flux cleaner
- H20
How-To
Hardware
- Obtain ECU
- Take external photographs
- Mostly for all the numbers and letters/the stickers
- Open ECU
- Remove PCB
- TAKE MORE PICTURES (before you touch anything else)
- The code on the plug socket
- The microprocessor
- The EPROM (if there is one)
- Any and all visible marking on components
- The ENTIRE board on BOTH sides
- RECORD all components with visible markings, decode resistor values
- This means a table with the PCB Silkscreen references and the components values
- ACETONE bath
- This is to remove all the conformal coating junk that interferes with reading markings AND the ability to probe, test, and desolder
- SCRUB with Toothbrush, Q-Tips
- PHOTOGRAPH and RECORD any newly visible information
- REMOVE any components with known values:
- Electrolytic capacitors can go first
- Then any ICs
- Resistors with the bands already decoded
- Connectors
- REMOVE components with unknown values ONE AT A TIME
- SMD Capacitors and Transistors are good examples
- Remove one, use the Multimeter and/or LCR meter to get values and RECORD them in the table
- Eventually you will be left with a BARE BOARD
- SPRAY and WIPE DOWN the bare PCB with WD-40 to clean up any remaining conformal coating and junk
- This preps the board for nice clear photographs
- PHOTOGRAPH both sides of the PCB
- Get ONE photo of EACH side of the PCB
- Flat
- In focus
- Dead-on photos with no perspective error
- Use a tripod
- Use lighting
- Use a remote shutter-release to eliminate shake from the image